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  • Rate My Swivel

    Hi guys,
    so I didn't manage to get myself a decent ballhook swivel, so I had a custom one made.
    What do you think?





  • #2
    Nice work, I like the bushing to reduce the bouncing of the ball. I take it you are going to use a carbiner to attach the bag?

    Comment


    • #3
      Looks like a winner. Would like to see and hear the swivel in action. Good luck !!!!

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks guys. The bushing is made of teflon, so that the ball doesn't grind on the steel but runs smoothly.
        I haven't tested it yet, but I'll let you know. I'll use a carabiner, yes. Can you recommend anything else?
        Last edited by AlfredGaebeli; 06-12-2020, 08:47 AM.

        Comment


        • #5
          That looks fantastic. Looks like it's ready for battle..
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          • #6
            Originally posted by AlfredGaebeli View Post
            Hi guys,
            so I didn't manage to get myself a decent ballhook swivel, so I had a custom one made.
            What do you think?




            So far looks awesome. Hope you can find a decent hook. Personally, I'm not a fan of the Carabiner holder. Also hope the base holes are 1/4 inch, which was the standard hole size in all of my past Everlast swivels. attachment holes have been getting smaller lately on some "custom" or home made swivels.

            Pondering: You show the shank in the ball with some threads outside the ball. I'm assuming the shank has to be screwed ALL the way in "tight" to be seated. The true test of your swivel will be how well that shank stays threaded inside the ball. That will be the weak point for any hook or carabiner will put pressure on the eye to eventually twist that shank out.That was the biggest problem with the Everlast plastic swivel, which had a plastic ball and metal shank that screwed into the ball.....for a about 100 punches if you were lucky until the shank got screwed OUT of the ball - and requiring super or "gorilla" glue to the threads.. The beauty of the old everlast ballhooks was the "set screw" inside the ball to hold the shank inside by pressure. (see #5) http://www.speedbagcentral.com/ssp/speedbag_swivels#A

            So in your top picture, I'd like to see that picture with the shank screwed ALL the way in, and note were the "eye" will hit on the flange. By the depth of that housing it looks like when the threaded shank is all the way inside the ball ( the only way it will stay in..) that the eye might be resting on the flange, giving limited movement, which may or may not be a good thing, depending on the bag attachment used.

            It's awesome workmanship, that's for sure.
            Last edited by Speedbag; 06-13-2020, 10:40 AM.
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            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Speedbag View Post

              So far looks awesome. Hope you can find a decent hook. Personally, I'm not a fan of the Carabiner holder. Also hope the base holes are 1/4 inch, which was the standard hole size in all of my past Everlast swivels. attachment holes have been getting smaller lately on some "custom" or home made swivels.

              Pondering: You show the shank in the ball with some threads outside the ball. I'm assuming the shank has to be screwed ALL the way in "tight" to be seated. The true test of your swivel will be how well that shank stays threaded inside the ball. That will be the weak point for any hook or carabiner will put pressure on the eye to eventually twist that shank out.That was the biggest problem with the Everlast plastic swivel, which had a plastic ball and metal shank that screwed into the ball.....for a about 100 punches if you were lucky until the shank got screwed OUT of the ball - and requiring super or "gorilla" glue to the threads.. The beauty of the old everlast ballhooks was the "set screw" inside the ball to hold the shank inside by pressure. (see #5) http://www.speedbagcentral.com/ssp/speedbag_swivels#A

              So in your top picture, I'd like to see that picture with the shank screwed ALL the way in, and note were the "eye" will hit on the flange. By the depth of that housing it looks like when the threaded shank is all the way inside the ball ( the only way it will stay in..) that the eye might be resting on the flange, giving limited movement, which may or may not be a good thing, depending on the bag attachment used.

              It's awesome workmanship, that's for sure.
              Agreed. One of the tricks of swivel design is to make sure the shank (stem) of the eye bolt is the only part that contacts anything. If the round part of the eye can make contact, it will throw off the rebound in some errant manner. The threads on the shank could become a problem too. They could wear unevenly and cut into the base.

              Teflon is an excellent choice for the bushing. I would like to see some action vids showing how well it performs.
              @ArcSwivel
              #ArcSwivel sigpic

              Comment


              • #8
                Hey guys,

                thanks a lot for the comments. I'm still a newbie so feedback is much, much appreciated!!

                Also hope the base holes are 1/4 inch, which was the standard hole size in all of my past Everlast swivels
                I measured them. The mounting holes are 0.7 centimeters (which is 0.27 inches). The width of the big hole is roughly 2 centimeters (0.78 inches).

                The guy who made this swivel for me had an everlast plastic ballhook swivel as a template. EVH4440 to be precise. The swivel in the pictures is a first prototype. He told me to test it and give him some feeback.

                The beauty of the old everlast ballhooks was the "set screw" inside the ball to hold the shank inside by pressure.
                That is a GREAT idea!! Thank you for this. I were specifically told to not glue it in - rather bring the swivel back and let him use some industrial glue.

                So in your top picture, I'd like to see that picture with the shank screwed ALL the way in, and note were the "eye" will hit on the flange. By the depth of that housing it looks like when the threaded shank is all the way inside the ball ( the only way it will stay in..) that the eye might be resting on the flange, giving limited movement, which may or may not be a good thing, depending on the bag attachment used.
                With the current design, the eye (the round part where the carabiner goes) does not touch the flange, just the stem that sticks out.
                But thanks for the hint, I am going to make a mental note of it.

                The threads on the shank could become a problem too. They could wear unevenly and cut into the base.
                I don't think so. The base is solid steel.

                I would like to see some action vids showing how well it performs.
                I will be able to test it within next week, I think. I'll try to upload a vid for you guys.

                Last edited by AlfredGaebeli; 06-13-2020, 01:07 PM.

                Comment


                • #9
                  This is beautiful! It looks like you are on track to have a nice swivel.
                  I like the Teflon bushing idea, hopefully that reduces wear, noise, and jumping.
                  please make extras

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Solid steel does not prevent wear and rear. But it might be unsinkable. The Titanic was. (Ooh! I just felt a bit of the old Rusty coming back)
                    @ArcSwivel
                    #ArcSwivel sigpic

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      It looks beautiful, nice work. Thank you for sharing. Please keep us updated on your progress.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Nice work! Can't wait to see it in action!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I think I would take a ball hook off of a useless plastic Everlast ball swivel and dial that thing in
                          If whomever made what you have thus far has to put it on the mill to tweak it I can't see you not
                          winning Look at other swivels and I'm sure you can get the eye screwed in to the correct depth
                          and the clearances sorted out "Carpe Diem"

                          Comment

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