What kind of bag should I get?

[garyspeed]

I am new to all this. I decided I wanted a speed bag for the garage. I saw one on CL. Its a everlast for $50. Then I saw this site and I see guys are making their own platforms and there are certain swivels to get. Is there a reason i shouldnt go out and get this bag? Its just a newer chinese everlast that some guy doesn want anymore.

I could weld up a frame and make a board but what bag and swivel should I get?

[Dutchman]

It would depend upon how old the set up is. If it's fairly recent the platform itself would be worth the bucks easily. The bags that come with these are throw away and usually the reason that the person has given up on it. If it's an older one (black particle board) then walk away at least at that price.

[garyspeed]

thanks Dutchman.

It looks like the newer one with a maple type board on it.

Included was an additional speed bag platform. Its like a metal ring with a "Whitely" hook/ball swivel on it. Has a heavy pipe and bracket for adjusting it.

So I got both for $50 but only got one bag.

From what you are saying Ill need to get a better quality bag. So this ring type one, is it supposed to have a wood board on it or does the bag just bounce off the ring itself? Are these any good?


Which one is better? Please advise and thank you very much.

Gary

[Dutchman]

That's an old school rebound ring. They were popular for quite a while, especially with the mail order houses. They were meant for the home use market, and used with larger bags. One of the chief reasons for their being was to reduce shipping costs. By the late 1960's they had fallen out of favor with serious users as they had proved to damage the bags. If you see a bag on eBay or Craigslist that has a well defined line about 1/2" to 3/4" wide across it's belly, it was used on a rebound ring. They also hit differently due to the narrow contact area.
The early versions were made of wood, later versions were wood with steel rings wrapped in a rubber sleeve. Less expensive ones were just plain steel tubing.

[garyspeed]

So would you advise me to install the everlast one and forget about this old one? Are bags even available for it anymore? About what year did the pros stop using these type platforms? Thanks
Gary

[Dutchman]

For the most part, professional and amateur boxers wouldn't use the rings, these were sold for use by the general public at home. About the only bag that you could use on a ring is the XL bag from Title AKA "Big Blue". Some people have installed rebound rings for historical display,(if they have the room) using the traditional platforms for their regular workouts.

[BaggerBob]

That old school bracket looks pretty stout. I like that it's adjustable too.
It would cost you well over $50 to make it, not counting labor.
If it is decent shape, have you considered sanding it, painting it and bolting on your own wooden drum?

[garyspeed]

That old school bracket looks pretty stout. I like that it's adjustable too.
It would cost you well over $50 to make it, not counting labor.
If it is decent shape, have you considered sanding it, painting it and bolting on your own wooden drum?

At first I thought it was supposed to have a wooden drum on it but then I found out the rings dont use them. The bag just rebounds off the metal ring.

Are you saying to modify it to use a wooden circle and take the swivel and retrofit it onto the wood? The thought had occurred to me but did not captivate me yet. Do you see any disadvantage to cleaning it up, painting it and just using it as is? The only disadvantage I have learned so far is that the rings can hurt the bags over time.

[garyspeed]

For the most part, professional and amateur boxers wouldn't use the rings, these were sold for use by the general public at home. About the only bag that you could use on a ring is the XL bag from Title AKA "Big Blue". Some people have installed rebound rings for historical display,(if they have the room) using the traditional platforms for their regular workouts.

I have mounted the bag from the Everlast platform just to test it and it does work. It contacts the ring at the fattest part of the bag. The ring is 21.5" in diameter. So maybe the ring is smaller than normal for this type of platform. IDK.

[Dutchman]

Probably post WWII era, they started to reduce the size of them then

[BaggerBob]

At first I thought it was supposed to have a wooden drum on it but then I found out the rings dont use them. The bag just rebounds off the metal ring.

Are you saying to modify it to use a wooden circle and take the swivel and retrofit it onto the wood? The thought had occurred to me but did not captivate me yet. Do you see any disadvantage to cleaning it up, painting it and just using it as is? The only disadvantage I have learned so far is that the rings can hurt the bags over time.

I'm the wrong guy to give advice being new, but yes, why can't you make a drum and drill holes on the cross straps to bolt it on?

It looks like it could be a nice rig.

I personally wouldn't use it as it is.

I'm building my custom rig right now...I'll post pictures when it's finished. Maybe next week?

[garyspeed]

Here is a pic with the modern bag on it. The whole thing weighs 67.8 lbs. I would like to use 3/8 blue tap con screws to fasten it to my concrete block wall in the garage here in south florida. They have a hollow inner and are not filled. Would that be advisable or will it crack the wall? Im not planning on doing pullups on it or anything but I dont want any cracks forming. Thanks guys.

Gary

[BaggerBob]

Here is a pic with the modern bag on it. The whole thing weighs 67.8 lbs. I would like to use 3/8 blue tap con screws to fasten it to my concrete block wall in the garage here in south florida. They have a hollow inner and are not filled. Would that be advisable or will it crack the wall? Im not planning on doing pullups on it or anything but I dont want any cracks forming. Thanks guys.

Gary

That I can advise you on.

I would recommend using 1/2" x 2 1/4" - 3" sleeve anchors into the block. (not wedge type)

The block should support your rig just fine and you could do pull-up's if you wanted too.

They look like this:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41hEvqkTZyL._SX342_.jpg

That is one stout rig...I like it!

Add: Looking at your rig, if you decide to bolt a wood drum to the bottom, I'd make the drum 2" wider around the ring and drill 4 holes through the ring itself for screws.

[garyspeed]

That I can advise you on.

I would recommend using 1/2" x 2 1/4" - 3" sleeve anchors into the block. (not wedge type)

The block should support your rig just fine and you could do pull-up's if you wanted too.

They look like this:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41hEvqkTZyL._SX342_.jpg

That is one stout rig...I like it!

Add: Looking at your rig, if you decide to bolt a wood drum to the bottom, I'd make the drum 2" wider around the ring and drill 4 holes through the ring itself for screws.

the flanges on the rig are 3/8" thick steel so what would be the best length? Should I drill all the way through into the hollow or leave a bottom in the hole? What is the reason why the sleeve anchors are better for cinder block? Normally I use blue tap con screws. Is there quite a bit of difference in holding power/crack prevention or just a personal preference?

Alternately I could just fasten it directly to the wall instead of to the big pipe and then to the wall. It wouldnt be adjustable then but it would be lighter.

Thanks
Gary

[BaggerBob]

the flanges on the rig are 3/8" thick steel so what would be the best length? Should I drill all the way through into the hollow or leave a bottom in the hole? What is the reason why the sleeve anchors are better for cinder block? Normally I use blue tap con screws. Is there quite a bit of difference in holding power/crack prevention or just a personal preference? Thanks
Gary

Get the 1/2"x 3", drill the hole 3 1/4" deep. Don't worry if you are in the hollow, the sleeve spreads out and will grab inside of the block.

Yes, way better holding power!

Tap con's are only held by the threads. They have good sheer strenght, but marginal holding power.

Bolt the pipe to the wall, it's already set up that way. You may want to adjust the height sometime.