Stand-alone platform and mdf questions.

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  • spd20
    Member
    • Apr 2011
    • 43

    Stand-alone platform and mdf questions.

    Hi. First off, thanks to Tim for creating this place as a resource for professionals as well as for us beginners.

    I'm definitely new at this. I have yet to punch a bag but am extremely interested in it and have been for awhile. I'm getting into it as an additional intense workout routine and to enhance reflexes, reaction times, timing and all of that good stuff. Quite frankly, I've also always thought it was bad a$$ and have always wanted to try it.

    Currently I'm trying to build my platform. Ideally, I'd also like to build a stand-alone speedbag stand as well.

    I've already cut 2 pieces of 3/4" mdf into (2) 2' foot diameter pieces. I've read in the archive, one post, that suggested mdf is fine. Is that the consensus? If I glued these two pieces of 3/4" mdf and put some sandbags on top, will this be good enough for a speedbag platform?

    Any tried and true ideas (with photos) for a stand-alone diy platform stand? I saw the cage in the archives. Looks great but pricey for my beginner needs.

    If I don't go the stand-alone route, I'm thinking either this or this will be the route I need to go to attach to the platform and to a wall. I'd really like a plan to where I could just attach it directly to the joists in the garage (with quite a bit of wood as spacers to bring the bottom of the bag to mouth level).

    Has anyone ever devised something an attachment rig where they could switch out the platform from room to room if they needed?

    What I have right now waiting to get set up to the platform is an Everlast Te:M Elite Speed Bag (for some reason the size is not shown on the package) and an Everlast CP Professional Swivel.

    Thanks for any help
  • Zaza
    Speed Bag Guru
    • Apr 2011
    • 2000

    #2
    Hey SPD20....looks like we're on the same page! I just posted info. you might be interested in here:


    Single sheet of MDF....2x6's...Everlast swivel and bag (to start)...small world.
    Once you hit that bag a week or so, do yourself a favor and get at least ONE NOS Ringside bag from Ralph (RP65), they are great and much easier on the hands. (I bought 3)

    Hope that helps...from one noob to another.
    Art of the Bag - A Speed Bag Story
    http://www.artofthebag.com

    Comment

    • Tim
      Administrator and Founder of SpeedBagForum.com


      • Jan 2006
      • 3428

      #3
      Originally posted by spd20 View Post
      Hi. First off, thanks to Tim for creating this place as a resource for professionals as well as for us beginners.
      You're welcome, and THANK YOU for participating. The place is made by the people that are here and contribute...

      I'm definitely new at this. I have yet to punch a bag but am extremely interested in it and have been for awhile. I'm getting into it as an additional intense workout routine and to enhance reflexes, reaction times, timing and all of that good stuff. Quite frankly, I've also always thought it was bad a$$ and have always wanted to try it.
      That's what keeps me going for more... faster ... less rebounds ... more complicated. I saw the stuff Alan was doing and couldn't believe it, bad a$$ is indeed the only way to describe it.

      Currently I'm trying to build my platform. Ideally, I'd also like to build a stand-alone speedbag stand as well.

      I've already cut 2 pieces of 3/4" mdf into (2) 2' foot diameter pieces. I've read in the archive, one post, that suggested mdf is fine. Is that the consensus? If I glued these two pieces of 3/4" mdf and put some sandbags on top, will this be good enough for a speedbag platform?
      Many platforms (homemade and bought) are MDF. That sounds fine to me.

      Any tried and true ideas (with photos) for a stand-alone diy platform stand? I saw the cage in the archives. Looks great but pricey for my beginner needs.
      The only other stand alone DIY platform is something Dee Pooler made out of metal. I believe he can weld, or knows someone that can. I don't know what it cost him to make, but I'm sure it was some $$$$. The upside of his model is it's easily portable, as he does demos at Schools around his area.

      The cage does cost some $$$$ - a 4'x 4' model could me made for about $200 using Home Depot prices. For me personally it was a good investment, but I certainly didn't build one right out of the gate, I used some beginner platforms until I was sure this was going to be a lifelong pursuit for me.


      If I don't go the stand-alone route, I'm thinking either this or this will be the route I need to go to attach to the platform and to a wall. I'd really like a plan to where I could just attach it directly to the joists in the garage (with quite a bit of wood as spacers to bring the bottom of the bag to mouth level).
      Either of those designs looks stable, with the "Triffid"'s one probably a little more stable due to the extra connection to the joist.


      Has anyone ever devised something an attachment rig where they could switch out the platform from room to room if they needed?
      I have not ever seen such a model, let us know if you find something.

      What I have right now waiting to get set up to the platform is an Everlast Te:M Elite Speed Bag (for some reason the size is not shown on the package) and an Everlast CP Professional Swivel.

      Thanks for any help
      That bag will be a good beginner size. The Te:M is a decent bag, but not spectacular. Certainly fine for a beginner until you decide you either need or want more...

      Comment

      • spd20
        Member
        • Apr 2011
        • 43

        #4
        Originally posted by Tim View Post
        You're welcome, and THANK YOU for participating. The place is made by the people that are here and contribute...

        That's what keeps me going for more... faster ... less rebounds ... more complicated. I saw the stuff Alan was doing and couldn't believe it, bad a$$ is indeed the only way to describe it.

        Many platforms (homemade and bought) are MDF. That sounds fine to me.

        The only other stand alone DIY platform is something Dee Pooler made out of metal. I believe he can weld, or knows someone that can. I don't know what it cost him to make, but I'm sure it was some $$$$. The upside of his model is it's easily portable, as he does demos at Schools around his area.

        The cage does cost some $$$$ - a 4'x 4' model could me made for about $200 using Home Depot prices. For me personally it was a good investment, but I certainly didn't build one right out of the gate, I used some beginner platforms until I was sure this was going to be a lifelong pursuit for me.

        Either of those designs looks stable, with the "Triffid"'s one probably a little more stable due to the extra connection to the joist.

        I have not ever seen such a model, let us know if you find something.

        That bag will be a good beginner size. The Te:M is a decent bag, but not spectacular. Certainly fine for a beginner until you decide you either need or want more...
        Thanks for all of the feedback, Tim. Sounds like I'll need to check into improving the bag. Is the chain link style swivel okay? I thought I read at one time that this is better than the standard "s" style (or was it triangle style) but I could be wrong .

        Seems to be folks here who design and build swivels and bags. I'll definitely check into that when the time comes.

        Comment

        • spd20
          Member
          • Apr 2011
          • 43

          #5
          Originally posted by Zaza View Post
          Hey SPD20....looks like we're on the same page! I just posted info. you might be interested in here:


          Single sheet of MDF....2x6's...Everlast swivel and bag (to start)...small world.
          Once you hit that bag a week or so, do yourself a favor and get at least ONE NOS Ringside bag from Ralph (RP65), they are great and much easier on the hands. (I bought 3)

          Hope that helps...from one noob to another.
          Nice, Zaza. Thanks. Heading there again now.

          Comment

          • Tim
            Administrator and Founder of SpeedBagForum.com


            • Jan 2006
            • 3428

            #6
            Originally posted by spd20 View Post
            Thanks for all of the feedback, Tim. Sounds like I'll need to check into improving the bag. Is the chain link style swivel okay? I thought I read at one time that this is better than the standard "s" style (or was it triangle style) but I could be wrong .

            Seems to be folks here who design and build swivels and bags. I'll definitely check into that when the time comes.
            Chain link swivels are great for punching back and forth (front and back of bag), but may give you difficulties when it comes to side punches (don't laugh, you may be there sooner than you think). It's certainly fine for a beginner and will serve you well for the time being.

            Comment

            • spd20
              Member
              • Apr 2011
              • 43

              #7
              Originally posted by Tim View Post
              Chain link swivels are great for punching back and forth (front and back of bag), but may give you difficulties when it comes to side punches (don't laugh, you may be there sooner than you think). It's certainly fine for a beginner and will serve you well for the time being.
              Thanks again. Might I ask you 2 more questions (I'll try to bug ya less after these).

              What is the proper height for a bag? I've read in several places that the bulge of the bag should be even with your mouth area. Then, I also read via Everlast that the bottom of the bag should be at eye level.

              This evening I put up the wood that I need to put up on the joists before my board gets attached. Right now the bag would sit a touch too high for either height listed above. Although I'd rather not go this route, I've read here that you can simply grab a pallet or something to stand on in order to reach the height.

              I'm trying to rationalize not adding anymore to the joists to bring it down by thinking that at some point I will most likely want to get a bigger bag. This may make the height more appropriate.

              That leads to my next question. How much longer to the bags generally get....let's say for the next step or two in bag replacements?

              ....

              This evening I actually pumped up the bag and attached it to the swivel. I'm getting amped to get this thing going. All I need to do is get longer bolts for both the swivel and to attach the board to the enhanced joists. Need to do a quick sand on the edges of the board and either stain or paint.

              For the record, that type of swivel is indeed a pain. I remember reading I believe here awhile back about that clip. I think someone either revised that type of latch on the swivel or came up with an inventive tool to detach it. I like the swivel itself but it certainly isn't good for someone who wants to take the bag off every time they are done because they need the head room.

              Comment

              • Tim
                Administrator and Founder of SpeedBagForum.com


                • Jan 2006
                • 3428

                #8
                Originally posted by spd20 View Post
                Thanks again. Might I ask you 2 more questions (I'll try to bug ya less after these).

                What is the proper height for a bag? I've read in several places that the bulge of the bag should be even with your mouth area. Then, I also read via Everlast that the bottom of the bag should be at eye level.
                yes, fattest part at mouth level... why? because it's easiest to pass the fists through the bag to the backside (and side to side) at that height. If you are punching "boxing" style from the front only, it doesn't matter, hang it as high as you want. But for "bible" style (speed bag bible that is) you need to have it at mouth level.

                This evening I put up the wood that I need to put up on the joists before my board gets attached. Right now the bag would sit a touch too high for either height listed above. Although I'd rather not go this route, I've read here that you can simply grab a pallet or something to stand on in order to reach the height.
                Yes, having something sturdy underfoot is usually fine.

                I'm trying to rationalize not adding anymore to the joists to bring it down by thinking that at some point I will most likely want to get a bigger bag. This may make the height more appropriate.
                I'll be honest... if you get into this sport, you're gonna go to a smaller bag, not bigger. An 8x5 is way more fun that a 10x7 , IMO, simply because it will be moving that much faster (significantly shorter rebound arc).

                Comment

                • spd20
                  Member
                  • Apr 2011
                  • 43

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Tim View Post
                  yes, fattest part at mouth level... why? because it's easiest to pass the fists through the bag to the backside (and side to side) at that height. If you are punching "boxing" style from the front only, it doesn't matter, hang it as high as you want. But for "bible" style (speed bag bible that is) you need to have it at mouth level.



                  Yes, having something sturdy underfoot is usually fine.



                  I'll be honest... if you get into this sport, you're gonna go to a smaller bag, not bigger. An 8x5 is way more fun that a 10x7 , IMO, simply because it will be moving that much faster (significantly shorter rebound arc).


                  I put it up last week! I haven't even recessed the Carriage bolts or put a stain on the board. I was too anxious and just wanted to get it up and give it a whirl.

                  I guess I'll have two options. As it is, it's up higher for boxing style and I have a little pallet next to it to step on for bible style.

                  I think I caught on pretty quickly within the first few minutes of hitting it straight on. I wasn't pounding it and wasn't hitting it quickly but getting the rhythm down wasn't that bad (viewing youtube vids awhile back probably helped to know what to expect). I'm putting "some" force into it now but still haven't been able to do it consistently for a long period of time without my timing breaking up. It seems to be easier to do it with one hand at a time versus alternating.

                  It's a bit addicting isn't it. Oh and of course you cannot end a session on a bad run. You start over until you get a clean run through and then you can call it. lol.

                  Wow, that chain link swivel has a lot of play in it. If you hit it off at a certain angle that thing rotates and flies about randomly killing a run. Looks like that will be my first replacement. I think that swivel unscrews from the plate. Is that plate universal....meaning can I get any other type of swivel and screw it in the same area (and not have to drill holes to replace the plate itself)?

                  Off to check out vids on proper technique and to see if gloves help or hurt anything in terms of technique (I haven't been using anything).

                  Comment

                  • speedbag4life
                    Senior Member
                    • Jun 2007
                    • 139

                    #10
                    Originally posted by spd20 View Post
                    Off to check out vids on proper technique and to see if gloves help or hurt anything in terms of technique (I haven't been using anything).
                    Hi spd20,
                    Congratulations on a great start with the greatest addiction. My home-built platform isn't stable enough (my fault), and it nearly kills me every time I look at it!

                    As for gloves, I think most people just use whatever is comfortable on their hands, then figure out their style/techniques from there. You might also find yourself punching bare-fisted one day and gloved the next, depending on your mood or on the texture of the bag you're hitting.

                    Comment

                    • spd20
                      Member
                      • Apr 2011
                      • 43

                      #11
                      Originally posted by speedbag4life View Post
                      Hi spd20,
                      Congratulations on a great start with the greatest addiction. My home-built platform isn't stable enough (my fault), and it nearly kills me every time I look at it!

                      As for gloves, I think most people just use whatever is comfortable on their hands, then figure out their style/techniques from there. You might also find yourself punching bare-fisted one day and gloved the next, depending on your mood or on the texture of the bag you're hitting.
                      Thanks speedbag4life for the glove tips.

                      I checked out an Alan Kahn video with some beginner tips that did wonders. Two words, "elbows up". "Punch through" was another key. Also I noticed to stand closer to the board. I watched it last night and tried it out this evening. It immediately improved my game. I still suck but it did wonders to my suckiness. I was immediately able to last longer with the "basic punching pattern" (granted still under 30 seconds before messing up). Surprisingly I was actually able to do a few tricks (stand-alone, not integrated into anything). Suffice it to say I had a blast this evening.

                      Are you using that home built platform or did you opt for a professional platform as your primary board?

                      Comment

                      • ExEODCDR
                        Senior Member
                        • Apr 2011
                        • 159

                        #12
                        Sandbags help

                        I'm a total newbie too - but my level of suckiness is dropping each session!!

                        I built my own board and used a 24" diameter 1.5 inch thick piece of pine. Mounted it with 2x4s to the garage door beams. It is solid, but I got a ton of vibration and the sound reverberated through the house... which I thought was really cool, but the wife says NOT so cool... I laid a sandbag on top right across the center from front to back, per some recommendations from folks here, and it stopped the vibrations, improved my rebounds, and I can bag at 1 AM and not wake the wife, kid, and dogs up!

                        Now I just gotta figure out JumpCannon's EVIL swivel!!
                        Attached Files
                        -
                        Owner/Operator
                        www.TheBlastingCabinet.com

                        LIKE on Facebook @ www.Facebook.com/TheBlastingCabinet

                        Comment

                        • spd20
                          Member
                          • Apr 2011
                          • 43

                          #13
                          Originally posted by ExEODCDR View Post
                          I'm a total newbie too - but my level of suckiness is dropping each session!!

                          I built my own board and used a 24" diameter 1.5 inch thick piece of pine. Mounted it with 2x4s to the garage door beams. It is solid, but I got a ton of vibration and the sound reverberated through the house... which I thought was really cool, but the wife says NOT so cool... I laid a sandbag on top right across the center from front to back, per some recommendations from folks here, and it stopped the vibrations, improved my rebounds, and I can bag at 1 AM and not wake the wife, kid, and dogs up!

                          Now I just gotta figure out JumpCannon's EVIL swivel!!
                          ExEODCDR, I saw your board in another thread (you mentioned that inlay work if I remember correctly). Very very nice board!

                          Did you use carriage bolts? If so, I'm curious as to what type of bit you used to countersink them (spade bit perhaps). Any thoughts on using spar urethane on medium density fiberboard?

                          lol @ bagging at 1am. Sounds like the way to do it. A peaceful time when you can finally be one with the board with no distractions.

                          Comment

                          • ExEODCDR
                            Senior Member
                            • Apr 2011
                            • 159

                            #14
                            Originally posted by spd20 View Post
                            ExEODCDR, I saw your board in another thread (you mentioned that inlay work if I remember correctly). Very very nice board!

                            Did you use carriage bolts? If so, I'm curious as to what type of bit you used to countersink them (spade bit perhaps). Any thoughts on using spar urethane on medium density fiberboard?

                            lol @ bagging at 1am. Sounds like the way to do it. A peaceful time when you can finally be one with the board with no distractions.
                            Thanks! Its a "modular" design. I used carriage bolts to build the frame. Then used long lag bolts to secure to the wall. On the board I used a spade bit to countersink 4 lag bolts and wood glue to secure an 8"x8" square made from 2x4s. Then the carriage bolts secure thru the frame thru the top mounted square. This way I can change out boards if I want to make another one.

                            I finished mine with linseed oil then used spar urethane (a few coats). Urethane should be fine on MDF. Good luck! Post pics when ur done! I enjoyed building mine! Hitting on it is more fun tho!

                            Yea... hitting at early hours is great!.. I work evening shifts every 2 weeks so I get my workouts in when I get home!
                            -
                            Owner/Operator
                            www.TheBlastingCabinet.com

                            LIKE on Facebook @ www.Facebook.com/TheBlastingCabinet

                            Comment

                            • spd20
                              Member
                              • Apr 2011
                              • 43

                              #15
                              Originally posted by ExEODCDR View Post
                              Thanks! Its a "modular" design. I used carriage bolts to build the frame. Then used long lag bolts to secure to the wall. On the board I used a spade bit to countersink 4 lag bolts and wood glue to secure an 8"x8" square made from 2x4s. Then the carriage bolts secure thru the frame thru the top mounted square. This way I can change out boards if I want to make another one.

                              I finished mine with linseed oil then used spar urethane (a few coats). Urethane should be fine on MDF. Good luck! Post pics when ur done! I enjoyed building mine! Hitting on it is more fun tho!

                              Yea... hitting at early hours is great!.. I work evening shifts every 2 weeks so I get my workouts in when I get home!
                              Thanks for the details, ExEODCDR. You're definitely set.

                              Darn, I've already drilled the pilot holes and installed the bolts. Therefore, I don't think the spade bit will work since there's no place for the center point of the bit to go to direct and stabilize it.

                              I was hoping things would be secure enough but it looks like I'll eventually have to glue the two pieces of mdf and I'll have to bore out an area to countersink the bolts....since this evening I noticed that the wingnuts were not as tight as they initially were and that there was a slight gap between each mdf piece.

                              I took photos last week but haven't uploaded them because compared to yours and others, this thing looks like a disaster.

                              BUT, this disaster has worked well enough for me to get started and I still smile when I see it, knowing that I'm finally bagging.

                              Thanks again for the information.

                              Comment

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