Are there any ready-made ceiling mountable speedbag platforms sold anywhere?

[Pegasos]

That you re aware of?

[Biff]

Great question.

[Tim]

I can't say I've ever seen one specifically for mounting on the ceiling...

[Pegasos]

Hey Speedbag, tell me something if you will, since you re the expert would you recommend using wood on a ceiling mounted platform the same way it is recommended to be used for a wall mount? It is a concrete ceiling.

[Speedbag]

Hey Speedbag, tell me something if you will, since you re the expert would you recommend using wood on a ceiling mounted platform the same way it is recommended to be used for a wall mount? It is a concrete ceiling.

What do you mean, "using it the same way" as a wall unit?

I think a wood rebound surface is superior to a concrete one. The type of wood also makes a difference and I would differ that topic to the master woodworkers on the board.

[Pegasos]

I m actually simply referring to the speedbagcentral.com recommendation that follows:

"it is recommended to create a two or three strip wall frame of light lumber (1x4 boards) and attach the speed bag vertical mounts to the wood rather than directly to the wall"

I wonder if the above is recommended for a ceiling mount as well..

[Speedbag]

I m actually simply referring to the speedbagcentral.com recommendation that follows:

"it is recommended to create a two or three strip wall frame of light lumber (1x4 boards) and attach the speed bag vertical mounts to the wood rather than directly to the wall"

I wonder if the above is recommended for a ceiling mount as well..

OK. now I understand. The answer depends on the width or distance between your ceiling beams for attachment. IF you are going to attach the board to ceiling beams or the area above the board, then your will need something solid to put screws or bolts into. ON a wall, you are attaching to studs that are normally on 16in centers, (center of one stud to the center of another), and the steel frames of most economy units are made with that in mind. Wider units are usually not, unless they are 32 inches wide, which will let them center on a three stud span. If you take away the vertical steel support frames, you are left with the board alone to attach to a ceiling, and you still have to drill through the board and put screws or bolts into something. IF you find you will have an empty (no solid wood) space where you need a screw or bolt, then you would need some framing.

But with a board attachment overhead, theoretically you could put the screws anywhere in the board. The only reason you are limited on a wall unit is that you are attaching the vertical holding frame to the wall, NOT the board. the board attaches to the frame, but if the board attaches directly to an overhead surface you are not severly limited to where the screws go in the board, as long as you counter sink them. The main concern to me would be the swivel attachment, for I like to bolt my swivel on for easy changing. The would require and space above the board, as well as enough space to "get to it". If you attach the board directly to the ceiling you are left with screwing the swivel into the wood, and the size of the screw is limited to the width of the small hole in the swivel. My own experience has found the force of your punching, particularly on larger longer bags, or in a high traffic area (lots of users) will eventually work these small screws loose in the wood, and they will fail, allowing your swivel base to begin sliding. At that point, these will eventually cause it to disconnect and fallout. With these swivel holes in the wood stretched or expanded you will have to move the swivel. You can't add fatter screws because they won't fit threw the hole in swivel base.

"Back in the day..." at Memphis State, I remember stuffing match paper and wood chips up into the swivel holes in rebound boards in an attempt to give enough support to reattach swivels. Eventually the board center had 5 or 6 different sets of screw holes from many attempts to keep the swivel bases attached.

(then one day, the speed baggers came in to find someone had mysteriously drilled four magical holes all the way through the board, and attached the swivel base with four long bolts that went all the through the board, from the bottom, with nuts to tight on the top. The speed baggers all said "wow, that makes sense..."- and then noticed they spent an extra 15-30 minutes per workout actually punching the bag, instead of trying to tighten or reattach the swivel base to the board.

and than someone said: Lets attach the board to the ceiling..... )

[Pegasos]

Alright, i would be lying if i claimed i understood what you said 100%, english is not my mother language... nonetheless, i believe we can have a successful communication.

First of all, you confused me me even more about the actual benefits of creating "a two or three strip wall frame of light lumber" that is suggested in the speedbagcentral.com page. Is it not for vibrational reasons? What exactly is it for? I have already used it in horizontal fashion for an economy speedbag platform, on a concrete wall. (If you are not the author of that web-page, let me know, i am under the impression you are!)


You refer to beams in the ceiling and on the wall, if i understood correctly. Actually, i am talking about a fully concrete ceiling, no wood inside whatsoever.

Probably you refer to a basement ceiling, which is quite low, therefore you talk about the possibility of mounting the board directly on the ceiling (i would agree this may cause severe reduction of any vibrations).

I would never use screws directly in the wood for hanging something, exept if it was to stay still. I only use bolts and nuts to mount a swivel on a board.



Alright, let me tell you what i actually work on in detail:

I am going to mount a 12 piece frame( + the wooden board) platform to a fully concrete ceiling (no wood inside, just some iron rods). When complete, the board will be standing on a height that suits me, and will be in the air about 80cm=30inches away (below) from the concrete ceiling. (I am going to make it adjustable, so that i can shorten it when i am not using it, by removing and placing bolts to upper holes.)

I made a drawing of the upper 4 pieces of the frame. What i wonder about, is if i should put another, wooden frame, on top of that:





As you can see above, this is the ceiling as seen from below.
ABCD is the hypothetical square inside of which the 4 upper pieces of the platform will be mounted. It is a 25inch-side square, so that in the lower part of the frame, i will be able to install a 24"",26"", or even larger boards.

Now, as you can see in 1, these parts could be mounted in concrete alone, or i could use "pieces of light lumber" as a frame and install the parts ON that frame, as you can see in 2 or even in 3 (pieces of lumber are in blue).

That's all.

Naturally, i am only wondering about this, because of the vibration issue and in thinking of ways to lessen it, when the platform is ready. I am still under the impression that the light lumber 'frame' is suggested for reasons of lessening vibration. If this is not so, but is suggested for other reasons (?), then i don't really have any questions...

[Speedbag]

Alright, i would be lying if i claimed i understood what you said 100%, english is not my mother language... nonetheless, i believe we can have a successful communication.

First of all, you confused me me even more about the actual benefits of creating "a two or three strip wall frame of light lumber" that is suggested in the speedbagcentral.com page. Is it not for vibrational reasons? What exactly is it for?

the wooden framing in the Speedbagcentral wall unit set up pictures actually serve several purposes .

1. As a frame to hang a wall unit that won't match up with the studs in the wall. (various stud span widths can cause this)
2. As a way to protect the wall surface from the slight shimmy of the vertical wall brackets.
3. to reduce vibration on the wall.

(If you are not the author of that web-page, let me know, i am under the impression you are!)

Yes I am the author of that web page.

You refer to beams in the ceiling and on the wall, if i understood correctly. Actually, i am talking about a fully concrete ceiling, no wood inside whatsoever.

Probably you refer to a basement ceiling, which is quite low, therefore you talk about the possibility of mounting the board directly on the ceiling (i would agree this may cause severe reduction of any vibrations).

I would never use screws directly in the wood for hanging something, exept if it was to stay still. I only use bolts and nuts to mount a swivel on a board.

Alright, let me tell you what i actually work on in detail:

I am going to mount a 12 piece frame( + the wooden board) platform to a fully concrete ceiling (no wood inside, just some iron rods). When complete, the board will be standing on a height that suits me, and will be in the air about 80cm=30inches away (below) from the concrete ceiling. (I am going to make it adjustable, so that i can shorten it when i am not using it, by removing and placing bolts to upper holes.)

....Naturally, i am only wondering about this, because of the vibration issue and in thinking of ways to lessen it, when the platform is ready. I am still under the impression that the light lumber 'frame' is suggested for reasons of lessening vibration. If this is not so, but is suggested for other reasons (?), then i don't really have any questions...

IN your outline and as you describe it, I would say YES use the wood to help reduce vibration. If I understand this correctly, you will be fastening your steel frame to the ceiling with about 30 inches of empty space between the ceiling and your board. the empty space is fine, but I believe the attachments to the concrete will still transmit the rumbling sound of the punching. You might even put some carpet or insulating material between the wood strips and concrete to help lessen the vibration.

I don't know how much it will reduce the noise, but if it were my house, I would put wood on the concrete.

[Pegasos]

Alright, i fully get it now, thanks.

So, what kind of wooden frame shape comes to your mind when you think about a 4 piece mounting? A two piece horizontal or a four piece vertical, as i have drown above? Or maybe some other pattern?

[Speedbag]

Alright, i fully get it now, thanks.

So, what kind of wooden frame shape comes to your mind when you think about a 4 piece mounting? A two piece horizontal or a four piece vertical, as i have drown above? Or maybe some other pattern?

I would probably go with the 4 piece vertical to put more wood up there and keep it even.

[Pegasos]

I would probably go with the 4 piece vertical to put more wood up there and keep it even.

Hmmm..

[Pegasos]

So which of the two types of wood would you choose to use if you were mounting a platform from the ceiling and you wanted a wooden frame? What would your choice be?

[Speedbag]

Of the two choices you give, I would use the wood on the bottom right because it looks thicker and heavier.

[Pegasos]

Of the two choices you give, I would use the wood on the bottom right because it looks thicker and heavier.

Heavier?

But what about the suggested "light lumber frame"?