Originally posted by kenk
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Need ideas for custom platform drum
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-Anthony
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just finished cutting drum...rough cut using circular saw...this drum is turning out better than I thought...really looks cool...5"thick...fir...surface is smooth...weighs about 50lbs...the surface seems super hard...bounced a speed bag off this drum and it really seems to rebound well...I'm very optimistic that this will meet all of my expectations...will finish cut using the 12" miter saw and jig and described by augustchief...
OBTW...If you use "gorilla glue" ...you get "monkey hands"...this stuff does not come off!Last edited by kenk; 01-14-2013, 06:03 PM.
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Ralph...you'll have to tear it from my cold dead hands!...
I will make sure I get a video of the speed bag sound after its installed (hopefully this week)...just lightly tapping a hammer across the surface, I can hear a high pitched sound, vs a thud...
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Boos, 24x24x6, End-Grain Butcher Block
Ok so my Boos 24x24x6 Butcher Block arrived today. I was a little surprised when I opened the box. It didn't really look like the pictures that were shown on their website. I'll post pics of that too. On mine, there are many dark spots on the surface, like knots, which for the price I thought it would be more like the website showed, and picture perfect(like last photo below). I have a steel plate that I need to glue to the back and then figure a way to get holes in this thing. I don't have a drill press and will need to bring it somewhere to do it. This will be mounted to a Primefighter 400 platform, due to arrive next week. I will use the stock rebound board as a template for the holes on the custom board. I weighed the butcher block, it weighs 90lbs, and the steel plate is 40 lbs, a total of 130lbs.
KenK's homemade Butcher Block that he is currently working on, and almost finished, is much more appealing and clean looking. In addition, he staggered the blocks, which appears to give it more strength. Ken also did an excellent job at making it circular as well. I may attempt to make mine circular tool, but will wait on that. I don't have much experience using a saw and don't want to wind up butchering my butcher block right away!Last edited by Bag-A-Holic; 01-15-2013, 01:16 PM.-Anthony
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Anthony...that's a nice big chunk of butcher block!...I wouldn't worry about the knots... probably a production issue..I cut out of all of my knots before assembling my drum...but is was a PITA...I would recommend the polyurethane glue as shown below for gluing the steel to the top of butcher block...make sure the steel is clean and grease free and the top of butcher block is grease/oil free too...coat both steel and maple with poly glue before gluing...then clamp together tightly for 24 hrs or so...
I've got a jig ready to cut my drum to final diameter using my radial arm miter saw...will cut this afternoon if the rain stops....
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Originally posted by kenk View PostAnthony...that's a nice big chunk of butcher block!...I wouldn't worry about the knots... probably a production issue..I cut out of all of my knots before assembling my drum...but is was a PITA...I would recommend the polyurethane glue as shown below for gluing the steel to the top of butcher block...make sure the steel is clean and grease free and the top of butcher block is grease/oil free too...coat both steel and maple with poly glue before gluing...then clamp together tightly for 24 hrs or so...
I've got a jig ready to cut my drum to final diameter using my radial arm miter saw...will cut this afternoon if the rain stops....-Anthony
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Major delay. I sent Boos the pictures. They apologized, and are sending UPS to pick up this one up. They said they'll start the manufacture of a new block, and it won't be ready for 2-3 weeks.
If you look at the back of the block, you can see large holes that were filled with glue or putty. Clearly not as pictured on their website!!! Do you think these holes compromise its strength? I'm thinking to instead, to try to negotiate a partial refund, and keep it, instead of waiting another 3 weeks. Schools starts back up in less than 2 weeks, and I will not have time to work on this afterwards.(until summer break)Last edited by Bag-A-Holic; 01-15-2013, 03:14 PM.-Anthony
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Originally posted by kenk View Postjust finished cutting drum...rough cut using circular saw...this drum is turning out better than I thought...really looks cool...5"thick...fir...surface is smooth...weighs about 50lbs...the surface seems super hard...bounced a speed bag off this drum and it really seems to rebound well...I'm very optimistic that this will meet all of my expectations...will finish cut using the 12" miter saw and jig and described by augustchief...
OBTW...If you use "gorilla glue" ...you get "monkey hands"...this stuff does not come off!
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Anthony: I'd negotiate a distressed sale deal with Boos...they're probalby just going to scrap the piece anyway....I'll bet they'll go for a 50% discount, if you keep it...assuming you're showing the backside, I would scrape out the filler and apply extra PL3 to the divots when you glue the steel plate to the back....
Augustchief...I just finished making the finished edge circular cut of the 5" thick disk on my 12" radial arm miter saw....It worked GREAT!...I would never have thought of using my saw to do that....thankx for the tip!...I guess that's why you're a Navy chief....CAN DO attitude!...All I did was to lay-down a 2'x4' piece of plywood on the saw...clamped plywood...drilled hole for rotation point...inserted a drill bit to use as a pivot...and lowered the 50 lb disk onto the pivot pt...then just made a bunch of small cuts...and that was it...perfect 90 deg angle...way easier than I thought....will post some pictures of the jig tonight and of the nearly finished drum...
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Originally posted by kenk View PostI'd negotiate a distressed sale deal with Boos...they're probalby just going to scrap the piece anyway....I'll bet they'll go for a 50% discount, if you keep it...assuming you're showing the backside, I would scrape out the filler and apply extra PL3 to the divots when you glue the steel plate to the back....
Originally posted by kenk View Post.way easier than I thought....will post some pictures of the jig tonight and of the nearly finished drum...-Anthony
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Circle Jig
Originally posted by Bag-A-Holic View PostKen, thanks for advice, I will try to resolve it that way, and follow those additional steps you mentioned, if so.
Yeah cool, I wanna see that thiga ma jig!! If its at easy as it sounds, I may go for it too, being that this board seems it already has some war wounds already.
Shop Tip :How to cut circles from plywood or stock lumber with a table saw.This technique can be used to cut large diameter circles for use as tabletops, st...
Circle Jig:
Cut a dado in the underside of a 3/4-in. high-density particleboard base and glue in a hardwood key, sized for a sliding fit in the saw's lefthand miter slot. Wax the jig bottom and key to reduce friction. Measuring from the blade, accurately locate and paste sheets of 1/4-in. graph paper to the jig top to aid in layout.
To use, first cut the circle blank somewhat oversize and locate its center. Next mark the radius of the finished circle on the graph paper and pin the center of the circle blank at this mark. Make sure the blank will rotate freely but is firmly pinned to the jig. Start by lopping off the corners of the blank. Hold the blank and jig firmly while sliding them past the blade. If hand-holding the work appears unsafe, mount a hold-down clamp on the base to lock the blank while cutting. Continue cutting off the corners of the blank until it is almost round. Then, with the work just touching the blade, rotate the blank to trim off all the high spots. The smoothest circles are produced using high-quality, sharp carbide blades.
Here's a a visual aid :
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Originally posted by AugustChief View PostThe jig is depicted here, you can also accomplish this much easier on a table saw.
Shop Tip :How to cut circles from plywood or stock lumber with a table saw.This technique can be used to cut large diameter circles for use as tabletops, st...
Circle Jig:
Cut a dado in the underside of a 3/4-in. high-density particleboard base and glue in a hardwood key, sized for a sliding fit in the saw's lefthand miter slot. Wax the jig bottom and key to reduce friction. Measuring from the blade, accurately locate and paste sheets of 1/4-in. graph paper to the jig top to aid in layout.
To use, first cut the circle blank somewhat oversize and locate its center. Next mark the radius of the finished circle on the graph paper and pin the center of the circle blank at this mark. Make sure the blank will rotate freely but is firmly pinned to the jig. Start by lopping off the corners of the blank. Hold the blank and jig firmly while sliding them past the blade. If hand-holding the work appears unsafe, mount a hold-down clamp on the base to lock the blank while cutting. Continue cutting off the corners of the blank until it is almost round. Then, with the work just touching the blade, rotate the blank to trim off all the high spots. The smoothest circles are produced using high-quality, sharp carbide blades.
Here's a a visual aid :
This is a really cool method though, and looks easy, and precise. I would practice on a few pieces of scrap wood, till I felt confident to proceed.
Makes we wanna go get a table saw like that, just go a cut circles, for fun.
If I didn't see this video, and someone wanted to bet me they could make a circle like that on that saw, I'd would've bet them, and LOST!!!!!!!-Anthony
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