Powermill mounted.

**jumpcannon** · 01-25-2011, 08:10 PM

Thanks for the review! Glad u like it!

**Brother Cavefish** · 01-26-2011, 10:31 PM

well i might as well chime in too, got my ringsides and my powermill

Attached Files

**jumpcannon** · 01-26-2011, 11:16 PM

Wow cavefish! That looks like a sweet setup!

**Brother Cavefish** · 01-27-2011, 10:43 AM

Originally posted by jumpcannon View Post

Wow cavefish! That looks like a sweet setup!

thanks, i have my whole garage set up for boxing
Heavy bag , DEB, medicines, mitts, gloves, jump ropes , weights matts- it a good place for me and the kids, I love the swivel, i can change bags easy and i am glad i came to your anodised phase, i am not a fan of chrome

**PIEFURZ** · 01-30-2011, 12:33 AM

Originally posted by Jimbo View Post

Got my Powermill swivel yesterday. Went out today and bought all stainless steel hardware at Home Depot in order to run bolts through the platform. Put some lube on both the ball and where the eye and s-hook meet (recommend by Ryan), hooked the Cleto Reyes on it and started baggin'. I noticed a difference from the first punch I threw. It's very smooth! It's got some noise I'm not used to but once you get things moving good, all you hear is the bag making contact with the platform. The loop on my bag is a little thick and makes it kinda difficult to get on and off the hook but it still fits!

My impression so far... great swivel!! I even put my cousin's XS Cleto Reyes bag on and hit it for a while. Those small bags can really get going fast with this swivel!! We also were able to notice the difference in the speed of different sized bags switching between my medium and his XS. That's how smooth it is!! Here's some eye candy.

The stainless hardware... 4 - 1/4"-20 x 2 1/2" machine screws, 4 - 1/4" lock washers and 4 - 1/4"-20 hex nuts. Home Depot must have inventoried the packages wrong today because they rang up at $.98 each!! 2 1/2" screws are a little long but will be perfect if and when I get a thicker platform.

Just to chime in, they price everything the same and then put in different quantities in the bags. So you may get two screws and a lot of washers because a washer would be cheaper than a screw. Speaking of washers, you would normally put a flat washer between the lock washer and the wood to make a metal to metal surface for the lock washer to lock into. It's been suggested to use wing nuts also but I find that you still need to use pliers or really strong fingers to get them tight enough. I also put a star washer on the screw head end (it pulls up into the countersunk hole) to keep from needing a screw driver to hold it. You've got a pretty nice setup there. Happy baggin.

**Jimbo** · 01-30-2011, 07:29 PM

Originally posted by PIEFURZ View Post

Just to chime in, they price everything the same and then put in different quantities in the bags. So you may get two screws and a lot of washers because a washer would be cheaper than a screw. Speaking of washers, you would normally put a flat washer between the lock washer and the wood to make a metal to metal surface for the lock washer to lock into. It's been suggested to use wing nuts also but I find that you still need to use pliers or really strong fingers to get them tight enough. I also put a star washer on the screw head end (it pulls up into the countersunk hole) to keep from needing a screw driver to hold it. You've got a pretty nice setup there. Happy baggin.

Yeah, I thought about it after purchasing and didn't think I really got a deal. I just expected to be paying more than $1 or more for each package of stainless hardware. I did use fender washers under the lock washers when I got home. I have a collection of misc. hardware that's separated by stainless and other material. I thought about getting wing nuts but just as you mentioned, having to use a pair of big pliers to get them good and tight would be a pain. I was able to tighten them well enough with a 3/8" ratchet, 7/16" deep socket and a #3 phillips screw driver. I didn't mind having to use the screw driver while tightening either.

A minor update, I pushed some heavy duty wheel bearing grease up into and around the ball and it's unbelievably smooth!!! I plan on taking it down and packing a little more around the ball but not too much so that it could escape out the bottom.

**Unreal** · 02-01-2011, 02:54 PM

what is the distance between the holes in the swivel to mount it on your platform? thanks!

**jumpcannon** · 02-01-2011, 03:32 PM

Flange is 1/4 inch thick. Bolt hole pattern is 2.75" centers.

**metaldad** · 02-01-2011, 06:10 PM

I feel so left out right now! But not for much longer! I can't wait til I order one!

**PIEFURZ** · 02-05-2011, 12:46 PM

Originally posted by Unreal View Post

what is the distance between the holes in the swivel to mount it on your platform? thanks!

Someone made a drawing template that you can print out for the hole pattern. Wish I knew the tread. It was for using bolts thru the board on a Balazs and is good for the Everlast and Powermill hole pattern. Make sure you follow the hints on printing and double check the spacing before you use it. You should be able to see the marks in the holes if you lay a swivel over them

**jimcaher** · 02-05-2011, 02:13 PM

Instead of drilling new holes in the drum and Balazs frame, what about using T nuts? Expand existing holes create a small contersink and drive the nut in from the top. Then screw directly into the T nuts and don't worry abouts loose nuts and washers.

Bolt Depot - T-Nuts

http://www.boltdepot.com/t-nuts.aspx

Haven't tried it, but seems like an easier way to go. Comments?

Jim

**PIEFURZ** · 02-05-2011, 03:32 PM

I made a long post and lost it. I keep having to log on. You would have to get the nut to sink into the top of the board to not interfere with the mount. Also the screws would have to tighten up before hitting the metal plate. T-nuts work easier with softer wood. One advantage with going thru the metal is that more bolts hold the platform to it. You could drill and tap the metal with 1/4" threads and not need nuts on top and put star washers on the countersunk heads. Could sink carriage bolts in from the top and put nuts on the bottom. Don't know if 1/4" countersunk nuts exist, kinda like wheel lug nuts. Although 1/4" fills the hole so maybe just locks and nuts. In any case it's hard to drill four perfectly straight holes thru the board without the right tools so things might not turn out exact.