Hardware update: as decent as these pine boards were for starting out my speedbag journey, it was undeniably time to go back to the drawing board and find a suitable drum replacement. My main complaint with the pine drums is that they felt like they absorbed too much momentum (since it's a soft wood), so I'm looking for something with a better rebound factor.
For now, I've obtained two maple 24" diameter drums. Each about 1.75" thick, and one side finished per drum.
My initial plan is to:
1. Remove and discard the old pine drums (three 24" diameter 1" thickness pine board).
2. Use wood glue to join the two maple drums and cure for at least 24 hours under compression. I need to remember to get some temporary plastic flooring to catch the extra glue drip, and a rubber roller to spread out the wood glue evenly. OR
(2a. Be lazy and just use one maple drum).
3. Measure out and drill new holes to align with the strut housing overhead. Initial research has indicated to drill slowly in order to not burn the wood. I may need to get a few replacement drill bits since I don't have a means to sharpen them between session.
Also may need to get some scrap wood pieces so I can avoid blowback on the opposite wood face once I've drilled through.
4. Get some fresh nuts and bolts to fasten the drum to the platform.
5. Reattach the thrasherhouse swivel.
6. Reconnect speedbag and loop saver and pray that the recoil is much better.
In the meantime, need to stew up some more thought about this process, and potentially get it checked with a more senior woodworker to make sure I'm not making rookie mistakes.
For now, I've obtained two maple 24" diameter drums. Each about 1.75" thick, and one side finished per drum.
My initial plan is to:
1. Remove and discard the old pine drums (three 24" diameter 1" thickness pine board).
2. Use wood glue to join the two maple drums and cure for at least 24 hours under compression. I need to remember to get some temporary plastic flooring to catch the extra glue drip, and a rubber roller to spread out the wood glue evenly. OR
(2a. Be lazy and just use one maple drum).
3. Measure out and drill new holes to align with the strut housing overhead. Initial research has indicated to drill slowly in order to not burn the wood. I may need to get a few replacement drill bits since I don't have a means to sharpen them between session.
Also may need to get some scrap wood pieces so I can avoid blowback on the opposite wood face once I've drilled through.
4. Get some fresh nuts and bolts to fasten the drum to the platform.
5. Reattach the thrasherhouse swivel.
6. Reconnect speedbag and loop saver and pray that the recoil is much better.
In the meantime, need to stew up some more thought about this process, and potentially get it checked with a more senior woodworker to make sure I'm not making rookie mistakes.
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