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hhaha thats funny. ill glady kick things off w/ a spin!
i almost decapicated BT w/ a spin at speed bag 2010
sorry kid!
i almost decapicated BT w/ a spin at speed bag 2010
sorry kid!
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He did come round fast... like a pissed off buffalo!Originally posted by SpeedBagScissorhands View Posthhaha thats funny. ill glady kick things off w/ a spin!
i almost decapicated BT w/ a spin at speed bag 2010 sorry kid!Comment
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Speed Bag Cages
If Tim, or anyone else, can send me some sort of sketch with dimensions, I can draw the speed bag cage in AutoCAD and make it a pdf that is printable from this forum. That way, we can rest assured when we are traveling to an event, that the cages will be consistent.
Also, Tim, if there is anything you'd want to modify or tweak on the cage design, let me know, and I'll incorporate it into the CAD drawing.Comment
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Yes, we'd have to have a sign, "Bag at your own risk", but I'd hate for a kid to take a spill... maybe it's not worth it...Unless we childproof it with a fence around it.... like bunk beds and child gates.... and we'll start a new club, "The Cautious Baggers Club... here to protect from all elements of danger in life!"Originally posted by aad03 View PostComment
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We'd have to ban any bag smaller than 8x5, you know...choking hazard.Comment
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That's a cool idea. If you think it would help, feel free.Originally posted by aad03 View Post
Personally, I feel that people give me too much credit on the whole cage design. It's basically a rectangle people
A few people (I think seriously) have asked me if I've patented it, but i don't think a cube made out of wood is a patentable design
It's 8' rough cedar 4x4s from Home Depot. You can buy 4 of them as is and use them right off the shelf. Then get six 10' rough cedar 2x6. Have Home Depot cut them all in half, so they are 5' each. Or if you want the "Mini cage" use 8' instead for a 4' width. 5' is wide enough to have 2 units side by side. 4' is not wide enough, and will only support a single platform on each side.
Take the 8' cedar and drill a hole using an auger or spade bit. You will use 1/2 inch hardware , so make the whole bigger than 1/2 inch, as this isn't precision construction. It also make is easier to put the thing together and take apart. The nuts/washers when tightened down enough will keep it stable. I used a 5/8 inch spade bit. Put the hole 3" down (in the center) from the top and bottom on one side. Flip the 4x4 over. Put a hole 6" down from top and bottom on the other side. That way the bolts won't collide when attaching them. Repeat for the other three 4x4s.
Take the 5' cedar and measure out a hole at about 2" in and 3" down. Use the 5/8 inch spade bit. Do this for both ends of the board. Repeat for the other boards. You can use the first one as a template.
Get 6 inch long, 1/2 inch bolts, nuts, and washers. That will hold it all together. Buy in the bulk boxes for best price.
For the top horizontal board, you can pre-drill holes on 16" centers for the platforms. We didn't drill the bottom bolt holes until we got onsite, because we had a variety of platforms and the distance bolt to bolt can vary - Everlast is 21.5" or 22.5" , Balazs is 23" if memory serves.
The beauty of working with wood is it's light weight, relatively cheap, and easy to work with onsite. Can't get a bolt in? Drill another hole on site or ream out an existing hole so there is more play for it.
I'll post detailed pics when I get back to home base.Comment
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