Tuf-Wear 8 panel speedball

[greenbyname]

Has anyone tried one of these? Information seems to be thin on the ground...

http://www.sugarrays.co.uk/shop/tuf-wear-classic-8-panel-leather-speedball-peanut.html

Looks like a nice shape to me, but what do I know?

[Dutchman]

Interesting. It's unlike any Tuf Wear bag, old or new, that I've ever seen. This is the extent of the line as Title sells it in North America

http://store.titleboxing.com/tuf-wear-speed-bag.html

[greenbyname]

Thanks Dutchman. Looks like another case of same brand selling different products in different markets.

Seems like all the Tuf-Wear in the UK, all 3 bags, are 8 panel jobs.

[Speedbag]

I have never seen a tuf-wear bags in a long neck, or bottle neck shape before. Generally I have found the long necks slower than others.

Here is a note on Tuf-wear from Titleboxing.

Does not look like the bag logo's matchand their bag has "six panels" Interesting as to why they would have such totally different bag designs, shapes and gear logo's. Makes me wonder...

[greenbyname]

Thanks for the advice. I've settled on a Lonsdale Authentic small. It arrived today! The Big Blue Title XL and replacement bladder have apparently shipped and are due for delivery by 14/02.

I've got a Deville No 13 and three sheets of 1" MDF to laminate (biscuit joint and glue) into a drum. the sheets are 30" by 42" and are going to fit into the A frame of my loft. It's rectangular so that I can support it against a wall as well as multiple A frame joists. The height of the board may be a little on the low side but this is the only location. There should be two to three inches of clearance either side so an effective width of 34"+, at the narrowest point, to cope with the XL bag. Almost there... two decisions left...

1) Should I recess the swivel?

2) Should I attach the swivel by screwing through the MDF and into a block of wood, so that the MDF drum is sandwiched between the swivel and the block of wood? Or should I drill out the shoulder of the swivel so that a hex bolt head will sit flat on the swivel, and then run a bolt through the MDF and wooden block, again sandwiching the MDF?

Once installed it will be difficult to access the top of the drum, so I'm looking for a fit and forget solution. I don't intend to swap swivels unless it fails, in which case the whole board will be taken down to effect the fix.

What would you do?

Thanks,

Green

[Speedbag]

Thanks for the advice. I've settled on a Lonsdale Authentic small. It arrived today! The Big Blue Title XL and replacement bladder have apparently shipped and are due for delivery by 14/02.

I've got a Deville No 13 and three sheets of 1" MDF to laminate (biscuit joint and glue) into a drum. the sheets are 30" by 42" and are going to fit into the A frame of my loft. It's rectangular so that I can support it against a wall as well as multiple A frame joists. The height of the board may be a little on the low side but this is the only location. There should be two to three inches of clearance either side so an effective width of 34"+, at the narrowest point, to cope with the XL bag. Almost there... two decisions left...

1) Should I recess the swivel?

Green

Recessing the swivel will shorten the rebound arc of the bag just a little, which would make any size bag seem a little faster because the arc is shorter. For me personally, I've just always use a smaller bag. for example, if I'm hitting a 9x6 and feel the need for more speed, I put an 8x5 or maybe 7x4. For me personally I have found there is a point to which a bag is too small to be fun to hit and the rebound arc and "bag hang" under the board so small it is very difficult to have your fist clear the board on downward elbow strikes.

tip: you can also get a bag to go a little faster by adding a bit more air, slightly overinflating it (note slightly. too much can cause a blow out). This also makes it a bit harder on the hands, and your hands may have a tendency to slip on the surface depending on the direction of contact or the point within the rebound you make contact. This happens because the bag does not "give" a bit to have the fist sink in (too hard from extra air inside) and the hand "slips" on the surface. That usually doesn't yield the expected force of rebound within the combination, contributing to breakdowns. Fancy way of saying you may crash and burn more if you overinflate the bag, but it will go faster.

2) Should I attach the swivel by screwing through the MDF and into a block of wood, so that the MDF drum is sandwiched between the swivel and the block of wood? Or should I drill out the shoulder of the swivel so that a hex bolt head will sit flat on the swivel, and then run a bolt through the MDF and wooden block, again sandwiching the MDF?

Once installed it will be difficult to access the top of the drum, so I'm looking for a fit and forget solution. I don't intend to swap swivels unless it fails, in which case the whole board will be taken down to effect the fix.

What would you do?

Thanks,

Green

Personally, I prefer to bolt my swivels so the head fits on the swivel base and threads poke through the top of the board. This way I don't have to worry about stripping out the holes in the wood that grab the threads on screws. At some point, depending on the material, the holes that accept the screws will get to the point that you will need thicker (larger size) screws and then the hole in the swivel base will be too small to accept the screw. Or you can go to longer screws if the board will allow it. All of this is only a problem if you are a "swivel changer" and like to swap swivels to try new gear, but if not I have found a swivel screwed into a board works fine for most people. IF you are a super power user, or hit in a high volume area with lots of people smacking the bag, the swivel base may work loose faster, but in a modestly used home environment, I suspect a swivel held by screws will last a long time. YOUR particular set up presents options with various layers of material so I'm not sure what to recommend, except if you recess your swivel in to the board I personally would vote for the bolted option, for it seems it would be easier to change that way. Just my opinion, and I'm no wood worker by any means.

Good luck with your setup. Hope to see some video's of it in action.